Journey to Our Roots: A McGennis Travel Guide
Visiting the ancient homeland of the Lords of Iveagh in County Down, Ireland
There's a place on the eastern coast of Ireland, nestled between the Mourne Mountains and the Irish Sea, where my family ruled for centuries. A place I've never been, but that calls to me with every discovery I make about our heritage.
County Down, Ulster—the ancient territory of Iveagh. This is where the Mag Aonghusa clan built their seat of power, defended their lands, and shaped Irish history for nearly 500 years. This is where castles still stand (or at least their ruins do), where stones remember coronations, and where the landscape itself tells the story of our ancestors.
I'm writing this travel guide as much for myself as for anyone else. One day, I want to take this journey. I want to walk the same hills the Lords of Iveagh walked, stand in the ruins of Dundrum Castle, touch the inauguration stone at Rathfriland. And when I do, I'll bring this guide with me—a roadmap to connect 875 years of history to one week in modern Ireland.
If you're a McGennis, MacGuinness, Maguinness, or Guinness descendant—or if you're just fascinated by Irish history—this guide will show you how to explore our ancestral homeland and experience the places that shaped our family legacy.
Understanding County Down: The Heart of Our Heritage
County Down is located in the northeast of Ireland, part of Northern Ireland and the historic province of Ulster. It's a region of dramatic contrasts—rugged mountains, rolling farmland, historic market towns, and stunning coastline.
Quick Facts About County Down
- Location: Northern Ireland, United Kingdom (note: different from Republic of Ireland)
- Major City: Belfast (capital of Northern Ireland) is nearby
- Airports: Belfast International Airport (BFS) or George Best Belfast City Airport (BHD)
- Currency: British Pound Sterling (£), not Euro
- Language: English (with Irish Gaelic heritage throughout)
- Driving: Left side of the road, car rental recommended
The territory of Iveagh, our ancestral homeland, encompasses much of southern County Down. The name "Iveagh" (Irish: Uíbh Eachach) still appears in modern place names, business names, and local geography—a constant reminder of the territory the Mag Aonghusa clan once ruled.
The Complete McGennis Heritage Itinerary
This itinerary covers all the major McGennis ancestral sites in County Down. You could rush through in 2-3 days, but I recommend taking a full week to really experience each location, explore the surrounding areas, and let the history sink in.
Rathfriland (Irish: Ráth Fraoileann, meaning "fort of Fraoileann") was the seat of power for the Mag Aonghusa clan. This hilltop town served as the ceremonial and administrative center of Iveagh for centuries.
What to See:
- ★ The Inauguration Stone Chair: The most important artifact in Rathfriland. This ancient stone chair was used for the ceremonial inauguration of the Lords of Iveagh. When a new Mag Aonghusa lord came to power, he would be seated on this stone in a ceremony that legitimized his rule. The stone represents the unbroken line of our family's leadership.
- ★ The Hilltop Position: Walk to the high points of Rathfriland and look out over the valley. This is the strategic vantage point our ancestors chose for their capital—you can see for miles in every direction, perfect for spotting approaching threats.
- ★ St. Patrick's Church: While not from the medieval period, this church and cemetery contain layers of local history and may have connections to earlier religious sites on the same ground.
Personal Reflection Moment:
Stand at the inauguration stone and imagine the ceremony: drums, torches, the gathered clan, and your ancestor taking his seat as the rightful Lord of Iveagh. This stone has witnessed our family's power, pride, and purpose for centuries. Touch it. Feel the connection.
Practical Information:
- Accommodation: Small town with limited hotels; consider staying in nearby Newry or Banbridge
- Food: Local pubs and cafes for traditional Irish meals
- Best Time: Morning light is beautiful on the hills; sunset for dramatic views
Dundrum Castle sits on a rocky hill overlooking Dundrum Bay and the Irish Sea. Built by Norman invader John de Courcy in 1177, this massive stone fortress was constructed on the edge of Mag Aonghusa territory as a statement of Norman power and a threat to our clan's independence.
What to See:
- ★ The Castle Ruins: The substantial remains include the circular keep, curtain walls, and gatehouse. Climb to the top of the keep for panoramic views of the bay and surrounding countryside—you'll understand immediately why de Courcy chose this location.
- ★ The Strategic Position: The castle overlooks the sea approach to Iveagh territory. From here, Norman forces could monitor coastal traffic and project power into the heart of Mag Aonghusa lands.
- ★ The Coastal Views: On a clear day, you can see across Dundrum Bay to the Mourne Mountains. The natural beauty contrasts sharply with the fortress's military purpose.
Historical Context:
For the Mag Aonghusa clan, Dundrum Castle represented the beginning of centuries of pressure from external powers. The Normans built it to intimidate and control; our ancestors would have seen it as a constant reminder that their traditional authority was being challenged. Standing in these ruins, you're at a pivot point in our family's history—the moment when the old Gaelic order began to face the reality of conquest.
Practical Information:
- Access: Managed by Northern Ireland Environment Agency; usually open to visitors
- Parking: Small car park at the base of the hill; short steep walk to castle
- Nearby: The town of Dundrum has excellent seafood restaurants and the beautiful Murlough Beach
- Combine with: Visit Murlough National Nature Reserve for coastal walks
Knock Iveagh (from Irish Cnoc Uíbh Eachach, meaning "Hill of Iveagh") is both a place name and a powerful symbol. This prominent hill served as a strategic lookout point and territorial marker for the Mag Aonghusa lordship.
What to Experience:
- ★ The Hilltop Vista: Climb to the summit for commanding views of the entire Iveagh territory. On a clear day, you can see from the Mourne Mountains to Lough Neagh—virtually the entire domain of the Lords of Iveagh.
- ★ The Landscape: The rolling green hills, stone walls, and ancient field patterns give you a sense of what this landscape has looked like for centuries. This is Ireland as our ancestors knew it.
- ★ The Name: Pay attention to how many places, businesses, and landmarks in this area carry the "Iveagh" name. Our family's territorial designation has outlasted our political power—the land remembers.
Personal Reflection Moment:
Bring a picnic to the summit of Knock Iveagh. Sit quietly and take in the 360-degree views. This is what the Lords of Iveagh surveyed—their domain, their responsibility, their legacy. You're looking at the same hills, the same valleys, under the same Irish sky. The connection across centuries is profound.
Practical Information:
- Access: Rural area; may require walking through fields (respect private property)
- Weather: Can be windy on the summit; bring layers
- Best Time: Late afternoon for stunning light on the landscape
Today combines two significant sites: Narrow Water Castle, a later defensive structure on the shores of Carlingford Lough, and Warrenpoint, where another ceremonial coronation stone connected to the Mag Aonghusa clan can be found.
What to See:
- ★ Narrow Water Castle: A 16th-century tower house on the shores of Carlingford Lough. While built after the height of Mag Aonghusa power, it represents the continued importance of this coastal region and the evolution of Irish defensive architecture.
- ★ The Warrenpoint Coronation Stone: Similar to the Rathfriland inauguration chair, this stone was used in ceremonies legitimizing the rule of the Lords of Iveagh. Its existence in a second location suggests the importance of these rituals and the geographic reach of clan authority.
- ★ Carlingford Lough: The stunning natural harbor that provided both trade routes and defensive barriers. Walk along the shore and imagine the ancient galleys (like the one on our coat of arms) navigating these waters.
Practical Information:
- Narrow Water Castle: Visible from the road; access varies by season
- Warrenpoint: Coastal town with hotels, restaurants, and harbor walks
- Border Location: This area is near the border with the Republic of Ireland
- Combine with: Explore the Victorian seafront and harbor in Warrenpoint
The final days allow for exploring the Mourne Mountains—the dramatic mountain range that formed the southern boundary of Iveagh territory—and visiting additional sites that provide context for our family's heritage.
What to See:
- ★ Slieve Donard: At 850 meters, the highest peak in the Mournes and in Northern Ireland. A challenging but rewarding hike with incredible views. Our ancestors would have known these mountains intimately—as natural barriers, hunting grounds, and refuges.
- ★ Silent Valley Reservoir: Beautiful valley in the heart of the Mournes, showing how this landscape has been used and valued across centuries.
- ★ Newcastle: Charming coastal town at the foot of the Mournes, good base for exploring the mountains.
- ★ Downpatrick: County Down's namesake town, associated with St. Patrick. While not specifically Mag Aonghusa territory, it provides important regional historical context.
Practical Information:
- Hiking: Proper gear essential for mountain walks; weather changes quickly
- Accommodation: Newcastle has good hotel options
- Photography: The Mournes are spectacularly photogenic, especially sunrise/sunset
Practical Planning Information
Best Time to Visit
- May-September: Best weather, longest days, warmest temperatures
- April & October: Fewer tourists, still decent weather, lower prices
- November-March: Short days, rain/cold, but dramatic moody landscapes
- St. Patrick's Day (March 17): Special cultural significance
Getting Around
- Car Rental: Highly recommended; many sites are rural
- Drive on Left: Remember UK driving rules
- GPS/Maps: Download offline maps; rural coverage spotty
- Distances: County Down is compact; longest drive ~1 hour
Accommodation Strategy
- Base Option 1: Stay in Newry, central to most sites
- Base Option 2: Split between Banbridge (north) and Newcastle (south)
- B&Bs: Traditional Irish bed & breakfasts offer authentic experience
- Book Ahead: Summer months fill up, especially weekends
Budget Estimate (USD)
- Flights: $500-1200 (varies by season/origin)
- Car Rental: $300-500/week
- Accommodation: $80-150/night (B&B or hotel)
- Food: $40-80/day
- Total Week: $2000-3500 per person (approximate)
Important Travel Notes
- Passport: US citizens need valid passport; no visa required for stays under 6 months
- Currency: Northern Ireland uses British Pound Sterling (£), NOT Euro (€)
- Political Context: Northern Ireland is part of the UK; peaceful but historically complex region
- Weather: Ireland is famous for rain; pack waterproof layers regardless of season
- Respect: Many sites are on private land or active farms; always ask permission
Making the Journey Meaningful
This isn't just tourism. This is pilgrimage. You're not visiting Ireland—you're returning home to a place your ancestors left generations ago.
I'm planning to bring Leonardo and Raphael on this journey one day—maybe when they're teenagers, old enough to appreciate the weight of it. I want them to stand where their ancestors stood, to feel that tangible connection to 875 years of family history. I want them to touch the inauguration stone and understand that leadership, responsibility, and service run in their blood.
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